For a few years, now that we were
mobile, having bought a car, a big Dodge, my parents decided we could take vacations and
be Americans, that is, have adventures.
We would go into the wild country, outside The City and even beyond Vastchasster, up into the mountinks, out there in the world of
Nature where hopefully the signs “Restricted” would not appear on restaurants
or hotels. So where did we go? We went
to the Eddirondicks, and particularly
to some of the little lakes around a village still there called Old Forge. This is the story of how we got there, where
we stayed and what we did. Plus maybe a
few other things as I think of them. It
also about the vilda cheya, the wild
animals we encountered, although my sister and I were often also called vilda cheya because of our entiks.
Entiks are in no
way shape or form related to antiques, or anti-kues,
which are simply old things you shouldn’t throw away and maybe other people
would buy for more than something new, who knows why? They are tricks, noise and aggravation
created by children in order to ensure their parents inherit a form of madness
from them. At home and in the city, you
have to try to be self-controlled and respectful of grown-up-niks. But out in
the rural lands beyond the boundaries of the city, nu, so there you could be a little free. You could be like Gene Jock Roysoo or the
American big shot writer who lived next to a pond called Waldo in New England and meditated long and hard about Nature.
Mountinks also maybe I have to
explain. You have to think about hills
that are tall and rugged and covered with rocks and trees, and so many of them
that when you get inside you can’t see out, only up there in the sky where the
clouds and the birds fly. And especially
the Edderondicks, named after some
wild Indians who once lived there, you can find ponds and lakes, as well as
streams and rivers, and also a few kebins
to rent for a holiday with the mishpucha.
And what is a kebin? you ask. It is a little house with just a few rooms,
and it sits on a piece of dirt, with rocks and trees and maybe a stream close
by. You can live in it a week or two
before it drives you crazy with all the shmutz
and hindsects that fly
about. For the kinderle it is a good place.
They run around. They scream a
lot. For the mother, so she doesn’t have
to clean up so often, can cook a little less than usual, because boys and girls
like peanut and jelly sandwiches on white bread you buy from a little shop down
the road in a general store. Eventually,
she goes crazy anyway, because, after all, who can she talk to? The father, you know, stays home in the city
to work, and he comes up only on the weekend, Friday afternoon, before Shabbos
starts at sundown, when you can count three stars in the sky. When he comes, he is pooped, too tired to
talk, only wants to sit on the porch and shnooz. This is called a holiday.
Look how fast
we cleared up a lot of potential misunderstandings. You now know everything you need to know
about the stories I am going to tell you about the times we spent up in the mountinks having fun with entiks in the Edderondaks. Just one more
thing. Unlike all the narratives already
spun out to you for the last few years, which were about me and my memories,
and in which sometimes I was not always telling you the full truth but slip in
a little fib here and there, this time, the whole mishigas is about somebody else.
To make it easier for myself and maybe for you, though the stories are
mostly make believe and about other people than myself, I will still speak
about me and I and we. Also, let me
assure you, nobody in my family ever spoke with a crazy Yiddish accent, it
still appears here, a kind of mask to avoid any reader thinking he or she is
dealing with a fency shmency
professional writer.
Be that as it
may, in the mountinks there are also
little lakes and ponds, and near them, on the shore—what do you expect, in the
middle of the water?—there are little kebins,
as I said. So we stayed. So when we stayed in the summer you could
stand on a wooden dock made from planks with a stick and some string and a hook upon which you put a
worm and in this way you fished for sun fish (already I made a story from this,
with even a picture). If you wanted to
take a boat, if an older child or a grown-up were willing, you could fish from
the middle of a lake and then maybe catch a trout or a bass what you could then
have your mother clean, cook and eat.
Sunfish, of course, not. You
would need maybe six billion of them to fill one frying pan, that’s how little
they were. In truth though, they had too many bones and you could never find a little flesh to chew. The other kind fish a
different story, you could make a whole meal for two or three people, depending
on your appetite and how big the creature was.
OK, enough about fishing.
Now about
hunting. In the wnter it could be that
some men would come by themselves or take along a few children old enough to
hunt for deer, bears, rabbits or whatever else happened to be roaming through
the snow and in between the trees. This,
by the way, was never from my family.
Did you ever hear of a Jewish hunter?
What could you find that was kosher?
No, by us, the hunting was in the summer and the prey was not
mammals. Instead, it was
salamanders. In the beginning, when I
was very young and my sister much younger, since I was seven years older, which
would make her still just a baby when I went hunting for salamanders, it seemed
there were all kinds, some pink, some green, some with blue spots, some
without, and others too perhaps. Later,
by the time I was already eleven and a smarty-pants, I knew they were all the
same; they just changed their colors and spots depending on how or if the sun
was shining. This was called camel-fatch. I would go out in the early morning after
breakfast to search for salamanders no matter what shape or color they might
be. The best places were in the little
streams that ran down from the top of the mountink
where we had our kebin and all you
had to do was pick up some stones and there was always or two that would scurry
along. Usually they scurried too fast
for me. Sometimes a little creature
could be found in the middle of the morning when the sun was breaking its light
out through the trees and warming up stones on top of which these little
salamanders liked to take a nap. It was
not necessary to be very fast then; however, it was better to be slow so you
didn’t wake them up with a startle. Then
I could put it into a tin can, cover with a piece of waxed paper in which I
punched tiny holes with a fork or a stick, and take back to the porch of the kebin where I tucked it in safely in the
sunlight. By the evening, when I went to
have a look, if I remembered from all this, the salamander was not there. Could it be the wind had blown off the waxed
paper or the animal by itself found the strength to push away the cover or
somebody you couldn’t guess set it free?
It didn’t much matter because the fun was in the hunting not in the
keeping.
Which brings
me, you should excuse this slide from one part of the story to the next, to
what my sister did. Already she was
growing up, as fast as I was, naturally, but more dramatically because she went
from being a baby to a little girl and it only took a season or two of
holidays. She had her own games. I had no interest because she was a girl and I lived completely in my own dreams. One
day, it must have been a weekend because my father was there and he had the
car, so we drove into the little village of Old Forge to go shopping in a
grocery store, the whole caboodle of us together. For a few hours we went to the shop, then we
walked around, then my mother bought ice cream cones, either chocolate or
vanilla or a mixture, you could get two scoops, then we sat on the steps of the
shop, and then we walked around here and there, with little stores that sold
finishing tackle, others that had picture post cards and baby toys, and soon the afternoon
was over and my father announced we were going back to the kebin by the lake.
Before we got
back in the car, my mother took out her big handkerchief, made some spit to
clean us off, because she said all over your hands and face there is shmootz from the ice cream drips and
leaks and you can’t go into the car like savages or vilda chaya. Me it was easy
to wash down with a few wipes of spit on her handkerchief. My sister, oy, there was a tumult, a lot of noise, screaming, capturing and
complaints. For why? She didn’t want to open her hand. My mother could clean the other hand, spit
and wipe, wash her face, spit and wipe, but not the other hand. That she clenched shut with all her strength
and will. A struggle like no one had seen
in her since she was born. Finally my
father came over too, and together the tatter-momma
wrestled her into submission, somehow and with a lot of tears and cries. When my sister was thus forced to unclench
her fist, so look, what was there was at first a mushy-squooshy mess, not anything, but gradually, with words and
looks and a little more strength of will and force from one side against the
other, the stains on her hand were identified as a salamander.
She had hunted
it herself, she said, and held it in her hand all day, including when eating an
ice cream cone. This was her biggest
defeat in her life so far, yet it was only after this that my own salamanders,
carefully put it into tin cans, covered with wax paper, perforated by a fork or
a stick, positioned on the porch for enough sunlight to keep them warm and
happy through the day began to disappear before we even got past
lunchtime. Their loss soon became
discouraging. What’s the use of hunting
in the morning if you have no prey to watch over later? So ended my hunting adventures.
In these mountinks called the Edderondacks were also real hunters, but
not the kind of gentlemen who drive up for a weekend or a whole seven days maybe
in the winter to play a game of being backwoodsman hunters, with expensive guns
and bright colored jackets you shouldn’t shoot them by mistake. But trackers, trappers and old-fashioned
kind, proper Indians that once owned all those lands and lived off the land
like you read about in books by James Feigenmore Kuyper that are stories of the last of the Monhiggans or the Irikeys and similar tribes.
There was a family living near to Old Forge, a little further north and
higher, in a kebin by a lake so big
it had little dams made by bivvers.
In the winter
when I was already approaching twelve years old and big enough to go with my
father and his friends through the snow up to a different place, a lodge, not a
place for girls or women, a real man’s weekend.
These men from Brooklyn what my father knew also were not hunters but
fishermen who liked to cut a hole in the ice in the middle of a lake, stick in
a string with a hook, and wait for a nobble by some trout or bass swimming
around under the frozen water and waiting for a wiggly worm to eat.
The trees had
lost their leaves, the rocks were covered with snow, and the sky up above was a
dark grey, with maybe sometimes a cloud or a bird to fly around in. It was also very cold, so it was fun at night
to sit around a brick fireplace, with big logs burning, and everyone sipping
hot chocolate and singing funny old songs and telling stories. These were not like the stories or songs you
heard at Boy Scout meetings or in the YMHA summer camps I was going to
already. These were grown-up men’s
adventures about their work and about the wars they had been in. They were very interesting, let me tell you,
only I couldn’t understand them and usually fell asleep, the nice hot waves of
flame from the fire helping me doze and from a doze into a sleep.
One night,
though, everyone decided to go visit a kebin
even further into the woods, and why? Because an Indian named Arthur invited them all over
for a special dinner, made from bear meat, which he had trapped and now had sufficient food to share, there being no other Indians nearby any more, and to thank these
men for the support somehow they gave him and his wife when his son, a young
man, had passed away a few years before.
These friends of my fathers were, you should know, doctors and lawyers
and dentists, and that’s how they helped out the Indian and his wife when their
son was sick and died. The son had come
to the city to study in the university to be a doctor and that’s how they knew
each other.
Well, needless
to say, when they went over for this invitation of a dinner, they asked me if I
wanted to go, and , of course, I said yes. Who would not want to meet a real Indian, go
to his kebin and eat a piece roast bear?
It didn’t even matter the meat wasn’t kosher. I expected to see Toronto from the Lone
Ranger or Runnink Bear like in the song or Nutty Bumpnik or some other tall,
strong brave out of a book, he should have a feather hat, a jacket with
fringes, and other things that make a person an Indian, like maybe a hatchet or
a medicine sack or a wampum belt. What I
did see was a normal person and his normal wife. They lived in a log kebin, as I said, with rugs and furniture and lamps and all kinds
regular things you find in houses.
In such a
small place somehow was close to a dozen people, my father, myself, the
Brooklyn people, the real-live Indians, and plenty of room to sit on benches
around a table, and a table groaning with food. Big bowls of rice, little bowls of chunks of
meat and others with vegetables, and also brown loaves of bread bakes in an oven
from a little hut next door. Then fruits
and cakes and bottles of beer, wine and juices. A magnificent feast. People, let me tell you, were very impressed
and happy from all this.
Then there
were spiches, some formal from a
welcome, a thanks, another invocation from spirits and ancestors what lived in
trees, in streams, in mountinks, and
sometimes inside the smoke that was hovering above us in the kebin. The thing that seemed most
strange to me, however, was that when the special speeches were over, there
began a series of other talks, less formal, from different people, including
the Indian man, he was called Mr Arthur Forest Coldwater, about how it used to
be around these places when he was a mere lad growing up, with his whole family
and other tribal relatives, and their memories of the long ago before the white
men came. As usual it was not something
I could understand very well, although because I was growing up and found all
this better than the books I loved to read, and this Mr Coldwater reminded me of
real Indians you see in pictures—except, let me emphasize, he didn’t have bright
eagle or turkey feathers in his hat or carry a bow and arrows, and this was a kebin and not a tipi or a Hogan—because his face was a kind of
bronze brown with lots of wrinkles in it and his little black eyes really did
seem to sparkle and dart about from one person to another as he spoke—and the
sound of his voice was, as the books said, sonorous and wise—I really tried my honest
best to understand and to remember so that later when I was more grown up I
might understand more and better.
Meanwhile,
sitting next to Mr Coldwater, when she wasn’t quietly slipping away and
returning laden with more food and drinks, his wife, or better I should say his
squaw, Mrs. Coldwater, or as she once quietly whispered in my ear a special
message, because I was the only child there, “Call me Mary or Mom if you want,”
and before we left she said her real name was Bluebird-that-sits-on-the
Mountain. Also once in a while during
the spiches and the long personal
talks that went on all evening for hours and hours after the main part of the
eating, she would also whisper in my ear to try to explain a little of what
grown-ups were saying in a way that a boy of twelve could make sense of.
This was
pretty special. I wish I could remember what
she said, but the significant thing is that if not exactly at this moment when
everything was going on way back then so many decades ago, right now as a
grown-up old man myself I feel deep inside me what she meant and somehow or
other I have a feeling that it was her explanations and the softness of her voice
and the warmth of her body in the smoky heat of the kebin that has helped me
know everything else I ever experiences or read about in books. It was, you might even say, if you are so inclined,
a total experience, a work of organic art. To be sure, this is not something I have ever
told to anybody else, and I am now speaking I strictest confidence to you, just
because there comes a time, who knows why, as you get older and older, and you
realize that the whole world you once knew and thought you could understand,
has changed, and maybe, honestly, into something not so nice, certainly not one
in which you feel comfortable or want to have anything to do with any more.
But
one final matter. I have remarked before
that all my funny accents when writing are just a mask to protect me from embarrassment
and having to confront too closely the rift that has opened up between what I
once was and knew, between the people that exist now only as wispy, dreamy
memories and the crowds that swish by in the present, none of whom can ever be
as close or warm as the ghosts back then, or even that one little night in the kebin in the voods, when I felt so close to the Indian and his wife, their
warmth and age-old wisdom, all of together like vilda cheya and hardly like the mensch you were supposed to become
and make a living by in the city, that is, to be a professional with degrees
and certificates. It was maybe only
adventures or entics up there in the Edderondaks most of the time. Pure kid’s stuff, someone said whom I once
almost opened up to before I met you.
Probably this
is the way it sounds and the way it looks. No reason to argue with appearances or common
sense. Still, just as salamanders can
come in all colors and have dots that are there in one glance and gone in the
next, maybe too all of life is like that. Or better, if you to draw analogies,
extrapolate lessons, and make a whole big to-do out of something so simple it
could live in a cloud or a wisp of smoke, you can’t keep the salamander alive
either in a tin can because someone or something will let it out before you
come back to examine it closely, or you certainly can’t hold it rightly in your
grasp the whole day long and expect it to be other than a mushy stain by the
late afternoon. Nor, because the words
keep pouring out like the icy cold water in a stream that flows down from the
very top of the mountinks to the
little lakes and ponds below, can you think you can make a meal and keep alive
from catching as many sunfish as there are, so abundant they seem to jump up
out of the water for you to catch, without really needing to tie a string to a
stick or put a hook with a wriggly worm on it.
So enough of my own ridiculous spiches. Time to say goodnight.
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