Glimpses,
Smells and Tastes of a World Long Gone
There was a time when
cigar boxes were basic building blocks for a child’s inventive mind, when
burlap bags could round out your personal wardrobe and cellophane opened
fantastic vistas into the universe. In other words, I grew up before plastic
and before television. I remember wooden toys, tin and lead soldiers, ba;sa
aeroplane models… and often wonder where all the silver paper went. Probably to
the same Land of the Lost as stamp albums and cockamamies.
The day bubble-gum
returned signalled the bed if the war. If you had a penny, you could buy one
from the large glass ball near the front of the candy store. Soon fathers would
be coming home, except for those who rested in foreign fields.
Something new on the
avenue. The message went around. The man from Israel was selling something
called pita. He had numbers on his fore-arm, like grocer from Hungary.
They said that chubby Mary
lived in the basement of her pizza bakery. She was so fat she could never get
out. She was always there and it only cost five cents a slice. No wonder she never went anywhere else.
The pushcart man stood in
front of the school and sold two kinds of knish, kasha. Both delicious after a
full day of classes at PS 164. For another nickel you could get a dixie cup of
soda. Those were the days!
Right under the el and
across from the Italian church was a bakery that sold all kinds of marzipan
goodies. They also had ice-cream cakes, lady fingers and charlotte rousse on a
plate. An electric train went along the wall on a ledge. You wrote your order neatly
on a pad of paper and it went to the man behind the counter. Then a little
while later the train delivered what you asked for. But you had to pay the man
at the cash register by the door before you went home.
Again back then everything
was a penny or a nickel. Except a
two-cents plain which was a glass of spritz
vasser without any flavours. So you could buy from a wooden barrel a big
half-sour dill cucumber for five cents in a piece of waxed paper and walk home
contented. Also a little twisted chewy pretzel for a penny or a big one with
large chunks of salt for a nickel. No wonder kids searched the streets and
alleys behind shops for empty soda bottles to turn in for two cents each.
My mistake. I never heard
of mocha ice-cream, so I ordered it. When the dish arrived, there was a funny
smell. A small spoon in the mouth. Ugh! Coffee.
How to tell the friends around the table that it was the worst thing I
had ever tasted. At least until about 1944, when grandma offered me spoonful of
her coffee. I was four years old. And it
was probably chicory, anyway, since it was wartime and there was rationing.
One evening, when my
father was still not home from, the war, when my grandpa was already dead, my
grandmother and my mother took me to dinner at a Chinese restaurant. It was
under the El on Old New Utrecht Road, which is a funny name for a street.
Everything is strange in the grown-up world and things aren’t what you think
they are. The windows had reddish glow
and the lights in the glass were bright green and flashed rhythmically. The Chinese lettering hid the scene inside.
To my four-year-old eyes, this was a Japanese place, and the Japs or Nips were
bad guys who were killing grown-up kids from my street. So I refused to go in,
although I could smell very delicious foods within. My grandma went inside and
very soon the manager, two cooks and the waitress came out to tell me they were
Chinese and not Japanese. When we went
in and sat around the table the meal came out—chicken egg-drop soup, chicken
chow mein, and then a tiny white round thing that my mother called a mothball
but I knew was ice-cream. The Chinese, I knew were good people, even though
they looked like japs and also write in a funny alphabet.
If you went to a
delicatessen, like Skilowitz, and who didn’t? whatever you ordered you had to
have with it a bottle of Dr Brown’s celery tonic, little plate of fat and
fluffy French fries, as well as half a dill pickle. Sandwiches were either corned beef or
pastrami on rye, maybe sometimes for the connoisseur sliced boiled tongue, each
with a generous shmear of hot mustard. Some older people were known to order a
cherry soda, since there is no accounting for taste.
On a winter or summer
holiday, as soon as you crossed the state line past Utica, you could get birch
beer. Not the post-modern chemical version from Mother’s Real Birch Beer, but
the really real kind, straight from the trees. So they said. And, boy, is it
better than root beer or sarsaparilla!
Howard Johnson’s was the
only fast-food chain (‘franchise’) out on the highways. From them you had to get curlicue fried
potatoes. Why else drive through the countryside?
No hamburgers back then.
Only meat patties with onions, sliced gherkins and, for the totally unkosher,
slices of Velveeta cheese.
Everyone had strips of
button candy. They were pink, white and
blue. By easting special patterns you could create secret codes to pass around
in the classroom. The messages were important only in the sense that they
defiance if the teachers and befuddled classmates not in your gang.
My grandma Molly took me
on what may have been one of the last trolley cars from 13th Avenue
to Stilwel Avenue the Boardwalk in Coney Island. We went over a little bridge
of stinking muddy refuse-filled water—to go to what was thus still technically
an island. No coneys or rabbits then. Only a horrible near-solid stench. Later
we went by subway and el. By then you really had to use your imagination to see
Stink River. The connection with Coney Island from Brooklyn was complete. Only
the smell continued—for many years; or was that a proustien memory? Officially what had been a nearly three-mile
long creek was reduced to less than a third of its original size and so what
had been an island became a peninsula.
I searched the cardboard boxes
left by storekeepers on the curb near thier shops for the garbage collector.
There were billing pads with still usable squares of carbon paper, pencil stubs
big enough to draw with, envelopes with local and foreign stamps you could soak
off, and many other treasures. Unfortunately most of what I brought home was
soon re-designated—I presume by my mother—for the household rubbish, usually
while I was away at school. Nevertheless, the hunt was a worthy adventure.
Cockamamies. What are they
and how are they used? They are sometimes called transfers or decalques. They are
pictures printed on thin, almost see-through tissue paper. You lick your arm
and then press the picture down. The result is a temporary tattoo. In current
usage something that was bizarre and useless was cockamamy. For instance, this
list of things I remember from Boro Park.
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